Financial talk for the rest of us...
Let’s start off with an interesting statement.
I believe that many of the personal finance problems that people face are due to a confusion between wants and needs.
Not long ago, I used to think it was more a matter of a blurry area between wants and needs. I’d use that blurry area to justify some of my purchases - cell phone usage, expensive pens, and so on. These things were “needed” in some way, so I would just define them as needs and not think about them critically.
But what happens when I step back from that for a moment and think about these things with a seriously critical eye?
What do I actually need in life?
I need a roof over my head. Does that mean I need a house as nice as the one we live in? Not really - we could make do with something much smaller and older. Thus, quite honestly, probably half of our mortgage payment is a “need” and half of it is a “want.” The same goes for house insurance.
I need food and water. A majority of my food bill is a “need” - most of my purchases are simply covering staples and buying the basics of food for my family. I’ll also identify my water bill as a “need.”
I need clothing. I’m extremely tight with my clothing - what I do buy is used to directly replace something that’s falling apart, and as we’ve established, I wear clothes until they’re in very bad shape. Even then, when I do buy clothes, I’ll still spend a little above the need.
I need a means to earn a living to pay for the needs. That means at least part of our electric bill is a need, as is our internet bill, as both of these are required for me to write and earn income.
My wife needs a means to earn a living. Thus, our fuel expenses are largely a need, as is car insurance.
I need basic hygiene and health, as does my family. Those areas of spending are largely need-based.
I need to protect my family against my demise. Thus, for me, life insurance and disability insurance are needs.
Everything else is a want.
Part of my mortgage is a “want” because I want a big house. Some of my food bill is a “want” because I like delicious food. Cable? Want. Telephone? Want. Cell phone? Want. Wii? Definitely a want. Other entertainment expenses? Want. A higher-end computer? Want.
When you start looking at the small number of things in your life that are actually needs, you really begin to see how many things you buy simply because you want them, and then you start to realize just how much fat you can really cut.
For example, do I really need both a home telephone and a cell phone, especially if I’m already paying for high speed internet and my computer has a microphone and speakers? Of course not. I could just set up Skype and immediately eliminate the landline, then just get a prepaid cell phone and take care of the mobile bill, too. (My wife and I are actually migrating to this - we’re trying Skype on a trial basis as our primary telephony right now).
What fun is life without wants?
The point isn’t to abandon all of the stuff you want, but to realize how much of your monthly spending is tied to wants. It’s fine and healthy to want things, but when you’re sinking financially just to maintain things that you want, then there’s a real problem.
Try this experiment. Divide all of your spending into needs and wants. Before tallying things up, make a deal with yourself - for every dollar you spend on a want, put a dollar into savings for the future. Then tally things up.
When I did this, I realized that the majority of our spending was on things that were merely things I wanted. Looking at those wants with a more critical eye - eliminating some and putting a bit more focus on the things most important to me - led me to making some cuts in my spending that I might have otherwise just assumed as a given. That’s made a big change in my spending choices - and has put some cash right back in my pocket.
The Simple Dollar chronicles a man's road to recovery from "total financial meltdown." As author Trent Hamm puts it, "The Simple Dollar is a blog for those of us who need both cents and sense: people fighting debt and bad spending habits while building a financially secure future and still affording a latte or two." We'll post a couple of entries a week, but you can check out his writing daily at www.thesimpledollar.com
A number of people have asked me how I’m saving for retirement now that I’m self-employed, and several more asked
yesterday when I mentioned that I was signing up for a SEP-IRA. In order to clarify everything, here’s exactly how I’m saving for retirement as a self-employed writer.
For comparison’s sake, my previous retirement savings were exclusively in 403(b) and 401(k) plans. Even though I planned to open a Roth IRA in 2007 (and even went so far as to fill out the paperwork), I eventually elected not to do it, primarily because of the costs associated with purchasing a house in 2007 and the fact that I was already rolling about 20% into my retirement plan. In fact, my savings in there is quite a bit above what’s considered “normal” for a 29 year old - I have substantially more than a year’s worth of my old salary in there, and it’ll just do nothing but grow over the next 30 years.
My current self-employement retirement planning is handled exclusively through Vanguard. I’ve invested with them in the past, I feel wholly comfortable with the way they do business, I agree strongly with their company’s investing philosophy, and I want to put all of my retirement into index funds, which is what Vanguard specializes in.
So what did I do? Almost as soon as I moved to self-employment, I opened up a Vanguard Roth IRA. A Roth IRA is a retirement account that almost anyone can set up (well, anyone with a Modified Adjusted Gross Income below $114,000 for an individual or $166,000 in a married couple). Each year, you can contribute up to $5,000 to the Roth IRA out of your after-tax money - it isn’t pulled straight out of your paycheck like a 401(k) is. However, once it’s in the account, it’s sweet - as long as you follow the very simple withdrawal rules (basically, no withdrawing until the account is more than 5 years old or you’re over 59 1/2 years of age), you can withdraw the earnings tax free - you don’t have to pay income tax on any earnings in the account (you can also withdraw your contributions at any time without penalty). For a lot more detail, read up on Roth IRAs at Wikipedia.
So, basically, each month I put a few hundred dollars into my Roth IRA at Vanguard - just enough so that after the year’s up, I’ll have contributed my total $5,000 (my wife is considering opening one as well, so that will make our combined contribution $10,000 for the year if she does that). Ideally, then, I’ll contribute $5,000 each year over the next thirty years into this account, taking me right up to retirement age. If I do that, and it earns even just 6% per year, that’s $395,290 I have access to at age 59 1/2, all of it tax free. If I get an 8% return on it, that’s $566,416 - tax free. That’ll certainly help with retirement.
What about the SEP-IRA? So, as I mentioned yesterday, I’m setting up a SEP-IRA through Vanguard as well, mostly because I wanted to contribute more towards retirement than the $5,000 a Roth IRA allows for me. A SEP-IRA allows a self-employed individual to contribute up to 20% of their profits to the SEP-IRA. I’m allowed to invest up to (approximately) 20% of my self-employment income into this plan (though I’m not going to be putting in quite that much). This plan is tax-deferred, meaning that I put in money before paying taxes on it and then pay income tax on everything I take out later on. For the purposes of most people, it’s like a 401(k) for the self-employed, except that you don’t get employer matches.
Right now, I’m contributing roughly 5% of my income each month to this plan - that’s in addition to the Roth IRA, but way under my contribution limits for the year.
How did I invest? In both cases, I set up a regular investing schedule and bought into the Vanguard STAR fund because I didn’t want to put in the $3,000 minimum for other funds. I’ll sell the STAR shares when it reaches $3,000 and move it to another fund. Eventually, I plan on having all of it split among a few funds just to ensure diversity - I want some international stocks, some domestic stocks, etc.
For most self-employed people, particularly those under the cap for a Roth IRA, this is a solid path to follow.
The Simple Dollar chronicles a man's road to recovery from "total financial meltdown." As author Trent Hamm puts it, "The Simple Dollar is a blog for those of us who need both cents and sense: people fighting debt and bad spending habits while building a financially secure future and still affording a latte or two." We'll post a couple of entries a week, but you can check out his writing daily at www.thesimpledollar.comI often write about how a person can save a few dollars here and a few dollars there by making a few little changes in their life. For some of my readers, this seems pointless, and they’re quite happy to tell me so. “Why bother saving $3?” they’ll ask.
Over the last month or two, I’ve really begun to understand the reasons for frugality: those little choices snowball into something big over time. Let me show you exactly how it works.
Make your own laundry detergent
Let’s say I decide to try out being frugal by doing something that’s quite fun (at least for me): making a big bucket of homemade laundry detergent. Each load done with the homemade detergent described in that recipe versus the cost of Tide with Bleach Alternative saves me seventeen and a half cents. We do a load of laundry each day, so that adds up to $5.25 a month in savings.
Use that savings to buy a big pile of CFLs
You save that $5.25 every month and after three months, you have $15.75 saved up. You take that $15.75 and use it to buy a set of four 100 watt equivalent CFL bulbs and replace the 75 watt bulbs in the light fixtures in the room you spend a lot of time in - say, four hours a day. Since the bulbs are then free, you can rack up the savings. Each bulb is now savings 52 watts, or a total of 208 watts every hour they’re on - plus, they have the lifetime of five incandescent bulbs. So, over the course of the next year, you’ll save 208 watts over four hours each day for 365 days, plus the cost of three incandescent bulbs (roughly the number that will burn out over that year). If your electric company charges a dime per kilowatt hour, that means you’ll save $30.36 on your electric bill over the next year, plus you save on the cost of three incandescent bulbs, which cost about eighty cents each, you save $32.76 over the course of the year, or $2.73 per month.
Use that savings to buy a big pile of cloth diapers
Now, from the CFLs and the detergent, you’re saving $7.98 per month. Now you find out you’re pregnant, so you save up that $7.98 per month for seven months, giving you $55.86. You use that money to buy a three-pack of bumGenius cloth diapers from Cotton Babies (bumGenius are what we’re using). These diapers save you $0.26 per diaper change over disposable diapers and you’re able to run a load each day. That’s $23.40 for the first month, and then after two months, you’re able to order another batch of three, and after the third month, another batch - all paid for by frugal savings. After that, you’re saving $0.26 per change on an average of five changes per day - a savings of $39 per month. When the child grows out of diapers, you just keep saving that money anyway.
Use that savings to buy all of your nonperishables in bulk
Now that your savings all around is $46.98 per month, you are able to start buying things in bulk at the store. Instead of having to cut corners, you can buy things like rice, beans, dishwashing soap, garbage bags, bar soap, shampoo, conditioner, toothpaste, fabric softener, deodorant, and so on in bulk. You use one month’s worth of savings to get a membership at Costco and thereafter cut about $25 per month off of your spending because you’re buying many items in large quantities, storing them, and using them as you need them.
Use that savings to buy a deep freezer and start buying food in bulk to freeze
Your savings is now $70 per month with basically no lifestyle change at all. At this point, you set up an automatic deposit into an online savings account - $70 each month goes into that account, which earns 3% interest. After five months, you have $352 in the account, so you use it to buy a deep freezer for the frugal benefits. You then start buying items like bread and milk in bulk and freezing them, saving you another $5 a month. After two months, you’re able to afford buying a portion of a cow in bulk from a local farmer, already cut up and processed for you, substantially cheaper than at the store. You store this in the freezer, too, and all told, you wind up saving about $20 more a month on food costs.
Use that savings to buy a used, fuel-efficient economy car
You’re now socking away $90 a month into that savings account. Nine years later, the kid is old enough to be involved in a pile of youth activities, so you start looking for a more fuel-efficient and reliable car. You look in that account and magically there’s $10,971 in there ($90 a month, compounded at 3% annually). You trade in your current vehicle and pay for the rest of that late model fuel efficient car in cash. Your monthly gas bill drops by $60 and on average you’re saving $20 on repairs, too, with this new, efficient car, and that doesn’t even include the savings from not having to make a “normal” car purchase with payments and such.
Use that savings to pay for college
Now you’re socking $170 a month into the account. Nine years after that, your child is ready to go to college. You peek into that account. $20,724.57
And it all started twenty years before by making a batch of homemade laundry detergent.
That, my friends, is what frugality gets you. One little change, conserved over time, can snowball into something amazing. Why not get started today by finding a little change you can make in your life and putting away that difference?
The Simple Dollar chronicles a man's road to recovery from "total financial meltdown." As author Trent Hamm puts it, "The Simple Dollar is a blog for those of us who need both cents and sense: people fighting debt and bad spending habits while building a financially secure future and still affording a latte or two." We'll post a couple of entries a week, but you can check out his writing daily at www.thesimpledollar.com
Carrie (yes,
that Carrie) writes in:
How should we balance frugality with social/environmental responsibility?
I could go to Amazon.com or Sam’s Club and buy all my dry goods there very inexpensively, or I could go make my purchases at a locally owned grocery, where I’ll pay more, but my purchase power makes a positive contribution to the local economy. I could buy a product that is cheap, but that has a more significant impact on the environment or personal health (things like laundry detergent or household cleaners). I could buy blue jeans made by someone who gets a living wage in a good working environment, or I could by cheap jeans made in a sweatshop in Eastern Asia with child labor.
Also, should one’s circumstances have an impact on this balance? Heavy debt vs. no debt, age, family demographics, etc.
Part of the question, I think, relies on the definition of frugality, something I talked about a while back. Wikipedia defines frugality as follows (with my own emphasis added):
Frugality (also known as thrift or thriftiness), often confused with cheapness or miserliness, is a traditional value, life style, or belief system, in which individuals practice both restraint in the acquiring of and resourceful use of economic goods and services in order to achieve lasting and more fulfilling goals. In a money-based economy, frugality emphasizes economical use of money in meeting long term personal, familial, and communal desires.
Quite often, frugality is considered mostly in the personal or familial sense of the word. What choices can we make that will maximize the economical use of my money, or the money for our family?
But our dollars go further than that. Our spending choices have a communal effect as well. Choosing to spend in the most economical way for our family might lead us to shop at Wal-Mart, but that might cause the local corner grocery to close and thus have a negative effect on our community. It might be more economical for our family to buy jeans made by someone in a sweatshop, but communally, you’re not only encouraging sweatshop labor, you’re also reducing opportunities for those working in more welcoming but less brutally efficient environments.
It all depends on your focus and personal perspectives. One family might decide that the cheapest prices are always the best and thus put their personal and familial aspects above the communal. Others might be socially-minded and thus look for opportunities to put the communal aspect first.
Here’s an example: fair trade coffee. It’s more expensive than regular coffee at the store. A person who focuses on personal and familial aspects of their frugality would probably ignore it and buy the cheapest coffee available. A person who focuses on communal frugality would have to make a different judgment call - perhaps that person feels that an extra dollar spent on the fair trade coffee is the best way to efficiently express their communal desires.
Frugality isn’t about what’s cheap. It’s about finding the best value for your dollar. The catch is that the word “value” has different meanings for different people in different situations.
The equation changes, though, in times of economic hardship. For almost everyone, if there are financial difficulties, familial and personal aspects become more valuable and communal aspects become less so. If a person is having difficulty putting food on the table, by all means they should choose to buy the least expensive clothing.
For me, personally, the best frugal tips are the ones that hit all three of these areas. For example, I’m a huge proponent of energy independence - cutting energy use where you can. This is a personal and familial savings in the form of a lower electric bill, but there’s also a communal savings - I’m responsible for less CO2 and mercury emission. That’s why I find value in experimenting with things like LED bulbs - they’re very expensive up front, but they don’t produce much waste in their manufacture, they last almost forever, and they use less than a watt to produce a ton of light. To me, there’s a value there, especially if the light output is decent at all.
Similarly, I dream of living in the country and installing my own wind turbine. We live in Iowa where there is almost constantly enough wind to keep a turbine going, and two turbines could fully power a home and usually result in an excess that could be sold back to the electric company. Is it frugal in the personal or familial sense? Possibly, but probably not. Is it frugal in the communal sense? Almost assuredly - my carbon footprint would almost vanish.
In the end, what does value mean to you? Do you put importance on the communal value of something, or does familial and personal value trump all? There is no right or wrong answer, just a different sense of what frugality means to you and a realization that someone else’s values might tell them that a different choice is the most frugal one.
The Simple Dollar chronicles a man's road to recovery from "total financial meltdown." As author Trent Hamm puts it, "The Simple Dollar is a blog for those of us who need both cents and sense: people fighting debt and bad spending habits while building a financially secure future and still affording a latte or two." We'll post a couple of entries a week, but you can check out his writing daily at www.thesimpledollar.com
At some point, as a relationship grows and becomes more serious between two people, questions begin to arise about long-term plans, particularly as it begins to become clear that at least a significant portion of two lives are going to overlap and become one.
For my wife and I, these discussions started about a year before our wedding. We just talked casually about things, such as merging checking accounts and saving a lot in our supplemental retirement plans. We mused about kids a bit, with a general consensus of waiting for a least a year after our wedding.
Big mistake.
For most of the first few years of our marriage, our financial planning and organization was chaotic at best. We were often doing things in completely contradictory ways, like making separate grocery lists and both shopping on our way home from work, or refusing to budget or merge checking accounts because we both wanted control. We made the mistake of not talking these issues out and figuring out a way to make things work for us and, as a result, we created our own fallow earth where only seeds of financial disaster could take root.
Here’s what I wish I had done.
Figuring Out the Right Time to Talk
There is no simple rule to determine the exact moment to have that first financial heart to heart. The real key is figuring out when the time is right for you. Here are some indicators that you should schedule that talk sooner rather than later.
You’re personally holding off financial plans because of the other person. For example, are you thinking about buying a new car, but are waiting to see if the relationship progresses before making that choice? Are you thinking of moving to a new apartment? Maybe you’re even postponing an important decision about your career. This is a sign that on some level you’re thinking very seriously about the long term with this person, and that means it’s time to start talking about that long term.
You’re left feeling uncomfortable on a regular basis by the other person’s financial habits. Does your partner spend more than you like? Is he or she too much of a tightwad? Does that person not take the appropriate time and effort to manage the details, like making sure that overdrafts don’t happen? If these issues are cropping up and bothering you, it’s time for a talk.
Your spending and your partner’s spending are less coordinated than they should be. This is something that was a clear warning sign for my wife and I as we got closer. We’d both stop on our way home from work and buy milk, winding up with two gallons in the fridge (and one usually going bad before it was finished). We’d both buy stamps. We used to have to pay rent at an office and, more than once, we both went to that office and paid rent or the month. This is a sure sign that something’s out of whack and it’s time for both of you to get on the same financial page.
You’re about to be faced with a major financial issue or milestone. If your relationship is serious and you’re about to be met with a major crisis, like an impending pink slip, a huge financial settlement, or a job offer in a faraway place, now is the time to have a serious talk with your partner about your shared future.
You’re about to make a lifelong commitment to each other. If nothing else has triggered a money talk, an engagement ring should. If you’ve committed to marriage, one of the first things you should work out about your future lives together is how the money should work.
Do Some Prep Work
Don’t just sit down at a meal with your partner and say, “Let’s talk about money.” That’s not fair to either one of you, and you’re likely to come out of such a discussion at least as unclear as you were before. Here are some tips for making it work.
Do some reading first. If you’ve never read a David Bach book, Smart Couples Finish Rich is definitely a worthwhile read. Head down to your local library and check it out, then encourage your partner to give it a read, too.
Compile your own “financial balance sheet” and have your partner do the same. Get the balances on every account that you hold - both debts and savings - and make a list of all of them. Subtract your debts from the money you have to get an estimate of your net worth. This is a great way for you to get in touch with your real situation, and having the opportunity to show this to your partner - and have your partner do the same - will be a really valuable eye opener for both of you.
Schedule time. Plan for a couple hours (at least) for you to talk about things. Don’t do it impromptu - give yourself and your partner some time to get the needed information together and to spend some solitary time thinking about goals and desires.
Make a list of the stuff you want to cover. Both of you should do this, making separate lists. Think of every money question you have that concerns you and write it down, then use that list as an effective agenda. Your partner should do the same - just list out everything, then use it as part of the agenda for the talk.
Tips on the Talk Itself
Most of the general tips for a talk with one’s spouse also apply here:
1. Start off talking about goals.
2. Admit your own mistakes.
3. Look your spouse right in the eye, and hold their hand.
4. Be goal-oriented.
5. Look at numbers - but don’t judge.
6. Be fair. If/when your spouse admits to overspending, don’t blow up at them.
7. Create goals that you both agree on.
8. Create plans to reach those goals.
9. Agree to talk about it regularly.
10. Do something romantic afterwards.
Since this is really the first time you’re talking about money in a serious way, a few additional tips are in order.
Figure out who the “money leader” should be. In most relationships, one person is usually responsible for making sure the bills get paid on time and other such basic financial tasks. Figuring out which one of you will do that early on will save a lot of pain later.
Lay your complete financial situation on the table. Yes, even that credit card debt you haven’t mentioned to your partner yet. Everything. Soon, you’ll be in a situation where a windfall can lift you both and a debt can sink you both - be open about all of it.
If you don’t understand, ask. The key to a good relationship is good communication, and if you can’t ask questions about things you don’t understand, you’re revealing another potential problem. Don’t hesitate to ask a question if you’re seeing something that doesn’t add up.
Talk about the major financial obstacles that you see in the future. Where do you want to live? In what kind of domicile? Do you want children? Do you want to retire early? Do you want to work independently? What things do you envision for your future that will affect the life choices both you and your partner will have to make? Lay it all out there and just flesh it out - the conversation will lead itself.
Go through all of the questions you prepared in advance. Those questions will lead your discussion in healthy directions - follow where they lead you.
Don’t walk away with hurt feelings. There are a lot of ties between money and emotions, and you’re probably going to get your hackles raised more than a time or two during this talk. Afterwards, do something together that’s very separate from the topic as a way to heal. Just spend some good, quality time together and don’t let any hard feelings that came up during this talk fester into something worse. Work through them, and remember that you do love and care for this person even if you’re not on the same page yet when it comes to money.
The Simple Dollar chronicles a man's road to recovery from "total financial meltdown." As author Trent Hamm puts it, "The Simple Dollar is a blog for those of us who need both cents and sense: people fighting debt and bad spending habits while building a financially secure future and still affording a latte or two." We'll post a couple of entries a week, but you can check out his writing daily at www.thesimpledollar.comI have a lot of fun following individual stocks in my spare time. I keep tabs on a small handful of companies that I have a personal interest in - Apple, Nintendo, Herman Miller, and Ford, namely. I watch for news articles on the company, read their annual and quarterly reports, and stay up to date on pretty much everything about the organizations.
For a short while, I owned individual shares in Apple and Herman Miller in mid-2007. I bought into Apple in late July, purchasing about 40 shares when the stock was at 140. Over the following three weeks, I watched Apple drop like a stone to below 120, then I sat there through late August and early September as it rose back up to 140. I sold immediately. Over the same rough period, I bought 50 shares of Herman Miller at 32, watched them sink and struggle to rebound, and sold the shares in late September at 29.
In the end, I didn’t lose too much money. What I did lose is a lot of sleep. The second I owned those stocks, I became obsessive over those two companies. I read every single morsel of information that came out about them, read reports, studied numbers, sweated, didn’t sleep at night, and a few times I even queued up panic sales of these stocks.
The second I finally sold all of them, I felt much better, and I walked away with a bitter taste in my mouth. Individual stocks are basically gambling pretty much sums up the way I felt and since then, I’ve barely written or even thought about individual stock investing.
But is that the right lesson to take away from the experience? Let’s dig into the idea a bit.
Information Games
Most forms of gambling that aren’t merely chance, such as blackjack and poker, are games of partial information. You know some of the information out there - the cards you hold, perhaps some of the cards the dealer holds, any revealed cards, and the “tells” that the other players have shown you. At the same time, key pieces of information are hidden - what the others are actually holding.
The same statement is true of stock investing, except the story is a bit different. Most of the information you’d really need to know - in fact, virtually all of it - is right out there for you to see. The only problem is that it’s like trying to find a water droplet at Niagara Falls - there’s so much information out there that processing it all is impossible.
As a result, stock investors often choose specific pieces to focus on. Perhaps they look at the P/E ratio for a company, or maybe they look at the backgrounds of the company leaders. I’ve read tons of books about different strategies, but most of them boil down to isolating a few key pieces of information about companies and using them as a judge about when to buy and when to sell.
The problem is that no individual metric is perfect. One can’t ever boil down the complexity of Apple’s entire business into just one factor. What would happen to Apple’s stock if tomorrow morning Steve Jobs dropped dead of a massive heart attack? Do you have any idea? Obviously, it would go down, but how far would it go down? Would Apple weather that storm? Those are both huge unknowns, but investing in Apple stock means you’re making some sort of prediction on those questions. You’re using one view of the information to make a judgement about a whole company.
The Investor Mindset
Some people respond to this glut of information and the inherent risks quite well. They focus in on specific things and just blot out everything else. They do the homework they need to do and walk away from it. Are these people gamblers?
What about others, like myself? When I was invested, I was almost driven crazy by the desire for more information. I knew that there was more to know about where my money was sitting, and I needed to know it. Am I an information addict?
Personally, the risk itself didn’t bother me so much - I was merely overwhelmed by the actual level of information in that information game. But what about a person who knows why he’s investing, but is ready to throw up after a 1% drop? I have a close friend like that - he basically can’t invest in anything that isn’t fully guaranteed. Is that person far too conservative?
It all comes down to personal makeup and psychology. Some people are predisposed to play this information-rich game; others simply aren’t. I put myself into the “not predisposed” category - I could invest if I had money that was truly “play” money, but not if anything of any importance relied on that money. It would move from being a dalliance to being an obsessive information hunt - and that’s the result of my psychological makeup, not the game itself.
Mister Market
So far, all I’ve really done is convince myself that stock investing really is gambling, but there’s one big factor that draws me back from making that leap. It’s the fact that the stock market as a whole grows in a positive direction, not a negative one.
In a typical gambling situation, the house “rakes” - meaning that the house takes some small fraction of the winnings. In stock investing, the “house” (in other words, the stock market as a whole or, for that matter, capitalism as a whole) adds to the pot over time.
How does that happen? Over time, innovations make it possible for companies to produce more and more with the same amount of resources. Think computers, for example - they’ve radically changed almost every industry. Innovation has a lot of different effects, but one of the big ones is that it constantly adds more value to the company itself in the form of increased productivity. The result is that all companies gradually become more valuable over time, simply because they can produce more with what they have - or produce the same amount they always have with less resources.
Think about a patch of farmland. Two hundred years ago, a farmer grew whatever corn he could lay his hands on, tilled a few acres with a horse drawn plow, tossed the seeds into the ground, and hoped for ten bushels of corn production per acre. Fast forward to today: tractors, fertilizer, and hybrid corn now make it possible for that same patch to produce 150 bushels of corn per acre. That means the entire farm is more valuable - and thus shares in that farm are more valuable now as well.
Over time, value is constantly added to the stock market (assuming everything else stays the same - when the market goes down, something else is changing). This addition of value is the one real difference between stock investing and traditional gambling.
My Conclusion
Individual stock investing is something like playing blackjack at a casino where, on every hand, the dealer is wagering just a little tiny bit more than you, but there are thousands of people around you shouting out suggestions. If you can concentrate enough and take the time to sift through the information overload correctly, you can potentially go on a very nice winning streak - and the odds are slightly in your favor. At the same time, though, as with any game where you don’t have all the information, you can very easily go on a losing streak.
My solution to all of this - and the solution that leaves me sleeping well at night - is to buy index funds. That’s kind of like going to that casino and playing 5,000 hands at once with earmuffs on. Because of the huge number of hands, the luck of any individual hand is negated and eventually you end up with a small overall win without the stress, time, and focus needed to win at an individual hand.
I think investing in individual stocks is a fine diversion and a potential way to earn a lot, but far from a guarantee and the work needed to get those earnings is tremendous. For the casual investor who hasn’t invested the time to really learn the game and the investment and learned how to fight through the information noise, individual stock investing might as well be gambling.
The Simple Dollar chronicles a man's road to recovery from "total financial meltdown." As author Trent Hamm puts it, "The Simple Dollar is a blog for those of us who need both cents and sense: people fighting debt and bad spending habits while building a financially secure future and still affording a latte or two." We'll post a couple of entries a week, but you can check out his writing daily at www.thesimpledollar.com
One of the most frequent negative comments I get on The Simple Dollar relates to credit card usage. I often advocate using credit cards for their purchasing convenience and rewards points, then paying off the whole balance each month. In effect, this means that I use a credit card as an extension of my checking account, albeit one that earns rewards for me. Over the course of the last six months using this strategy, I’ve earned about $500 in car rebates using my Citi Driver’s Edge card - and I’m carrying no balance at all. That $500 will go toward the purchase of a new car in the future.
So what’s wrong with that? There’s a rather vocal group of people out there who basically state that credit cards are completely unnecessary, some even going so far as to decry them as evil. Take this recent comment from Kerry on my article about a financial recovery toolkit:
You mentioned that you put your credit cards in your top dresser drawer and then over time were able to put them back in your wallet. Why not destroy them completely and close the accounts?
If you cannot pay cash for something, then you do not need it.
Along these same lines, individuals like Dave Ramsey and blogs like No Credit Needed follow that same philosophy: no credit cards, period.
And then there’s the other group… Part of the reason that the anti-credit card group is so fervently opposed to credit cards is because it is incredibly easy to lose track of the connection between plastic and real money, and when that connection is lost, it’s incredibly easy to get into a dangerous debt situation.
It’s for this reason that so many people are in deep credit card debt. Check out this article by Liz Pulliam Weston cracking the numbers on average credit card debt nationwide. The average American has $9,300 in credit card debt and the median American has $2,200. What these numbers mean together is that half of all Americans have more than $2,200 on their credit cards - and some of those have a lot more than $2,200. According to the article, 8.3% of households owe $9,000 or more on their cards, but many of those households owe way more than $9,000.
There’s clearly a problem out there with credit cards. A large subset of people out there treat them as if they’re free money, charging up balances that are going to be difficult to pay off. I routinely hear from readers with $30,0000 to $40,000 in credit card debt - and I myself had well into the five figures in credit card debt once upon a time.
So what’s the real answer? I look at credit cards as being like a very dangerous power tool. If you’re careful and take the proper precautions, they can save you time and shower some rewards on you as well. On the other hand, if you use credit cards with reckless abandon, you run the serious risk of some intense financial damage to yourself.
Here’s my advice. If you’re in a bad financial situation, get rid of your credit cards. Lock them up somewhere where you can’t get at them and don’t use them for a long while. However, if your finances are under control and you’re in good shape, the convenience, consumer protection, and bonus rewards offered by credit cards make them a worthwhile tool.
I strongly invite differing perspectives in the comments here, as I know quite well there are people who have come to different conclusions on the subject.
The Simple Dollar chronicles a man's road to recovery from "total financial meltdown." As author Trent Hamm puts it, "The Simple Dollar is a blog for those of us who need both cents and sense: people fighting debt and bad spending habits while building a financially secure future and still affording a latte or two." We'll post a couple of entries a week, but you can check out his writing daily at www.thesimpledollar.com.
The Simple Dollar chronicles a man's road to recovery from "total financial meltdown." As author Trent Hamm puts it, "The Simple Dollar is a blog for those of us who need both cents and sense: people fighting debt and bad spending habits while building a financially secure future and still affording a latte or two." We'll post a couple of entries a week, but you can check out his writing daily at www.thesimpledollar.com.
One personal finance project that a lot of people overlook is the household inventory. It’s one of those “once in a great while” tasks that’s easy to overlook and forget about, but it’s not very hard and it can pay
huge dividends if you’re carrying homeowners’ or renters’ insurance and something goes wrong with your living quarters.
A household inventory is a documentation of every item in your home so that you have this in the event of a disaster, such as a robbery or a house fire. It usually consists of a list of the items and/or a videotaped walkthrough of your home which captures images of the items.
Such an inventory can be very useful when dealing with insurance companies, as it provides documentation of the items that you own, thus helping your case for an insurance settlement.
Eight steps for making your own household inventory
One can make an excellent household inventory in just a few hours on a weekend. I was able to do my own home in about two hours of steady effort. It’s not too hard at all - it just takes time. Here’s the game plan.
1. Get a video recorder. If you don’t own one already, borrow one from someone. A video recording is a great way to document all of the items in your home, even the ones you forget to list.
2. Get a laptop - or a very good note taker. When we documented our home, we found it easiest to take a laptop from room to room in our home to jot down all of the information. If you don’t have a laptop, designate someone to be a note taker (maybe yourself, if you’re doing it alone).
3. Do one room at a time. Go to each room in your home and document all of the significant items in it. It’s not necessary to document individual foodstuffs and individual toiletries, for example, but I’d document things down to silverware and plates - my rule of thumb is that if it’s worth more than $10 and easily replaceable, or if it’s not easily replaceable no matter what, it gets documented.
4. Record as much information as you can about each item. Make, model, serial number, purchase date, and so on are all good pieces of information to have, especially for larger items. For smaller items, just list what they are and make sure that some video is taken.
5. Be sure to videotape or photograph any personal valuables. Jewelry and family heirlooms fall into this area. These are items that are not easily described and are best noted with visual proof of their existence.
6. Store the list/video in a secure place not in your home. This is a perfect item for a safe deposit box at your bank, for example. Just make sure it’s not in your home, as this is an item you’ll only need if there’s significant damage to your home or to the property in it.
7. Update the list semi-regularly. There’s no need to do this monthly, but an annual updating of the list can be useful. You can tack addendums on the end of your earlier lists or videos if you wish, covering any new purchases you’ve made.
8. Make sure that everyone knows where the list is, including a person or two who doesn’t live in your home. That way, if a real disaster strikes and you’re incapacitated, others can retrieve the list and help with insurance issues while you’re recovering - or can help your survivors get the insurance settlement that they’re due.
Check out more of Trent's financial commentary at www.thesimpledollar.com, or learn more about him at www.thesimpledollar.com/about/.
The Simple Dollar chronicles a man's road to recovery from "total financial meltdown." As author Trent Hamm puts it, "The Simple Dollar is a blog for those of us who need both cents and sense: people fighting debt and bad spending habits while building a financially secure future and still affording a latte or two." We'll post a couple of entries a week, but you can check out his writing daily at www.thesimpledollar.com.
Yesterday, a reader that I’ll call Susie contacted me with a long story about her family’s financial situation. Here’s an excerpt from near the end that really sums up the problems that she’s having.
The real problem is that even if I buckle down and cut back on some stuff, we always find ways to spend what’s in our account and we find ourselves waiting for the next paycheck. It feels like a constant losing battle.
Susie has a lot of things right with her financial situation. She has two credit cards, but both have a zero balance on them, so they’re not facing credit card issues. Her family makes a good income as well, so they’re not really pinched by that, either. The problem is that it’s far too easy for them to spend, spend, spend.
Here are some tips that I would suggest for Susie and her family.
Set up a savings account in a separate place that isn’t easy to access. I find that online banks like ING Direct are a great place to do this, as the money in this account can be accessed if you take the time to log on and execute the transfer, but you can’t easily just write a check or use a card to drain it of money, plus you can set up sub accounts for each of your savings goals.
Go through all of your spending and trim away some of the “routine” fat. Find things that you routinely spend money on and reduce them. Good places to look include any monthly bills strictly related to social activities (like country club membership or your cell phone bill) or entertainment (like Netflix or the cable bill). Look for things you don’t use - maybe you don’t watch the premium movie channels you’re paying for, or maybe you’re not utilizing Netflix as well as you thought you would, or perhaps you’re buying way too many text messages each month and aren’t using them. If you’re unsure about whether to cut something, cut it. You can always bring it back if you find that it was more useful than you thought. Here’s a big list of ways to cut regular expenses and one hundred ways to trim a little bit of spending.
Keep a running total as you cut things down. Keep track of how much you’re saving per month. If you cut out Netflix, you might be saving $20 a month. If you remove the text messages, that might be another $10. Installing a whole bunch of CFLs instead of incandescent bulbs might save another $10, as might a programmable thermostat. The gym membership that you don’t use might save another $30. Instituting a “family night” where you cook something at home and play board games instead of eating out might save another $30 a month. These trimmings can really add up to a lot, so keep jotting them down as you do them.
Add up how much fat you trimmed. That’s how much you can immediately start socking away into that savings account. The first time I did this, I came up with almost $200 in savings each month. That seemed like a lot of money, especially from someone who had been almost drowning in his own spending.
Set up an automatic transfer from your checking account to your bank account each week for a quarter of that monthly total. So, if you figured up that you can save $200 a month, set up an automatic transfer for $50 each week into your savings account. Since you’ve already trimmed that fat, you won’t miss it, and you’ll end up saving about $2,600 a year.
Don’t touch that money until you truly need it. In other words, never touch it to buy something new. Never touch it for presents. Only touch it when you’re in a financial bind, and then hit it hard. Another option is to use that savings for a specific goal - for example, use it to save for your next car so that when you go to buy, you have an extremely large down payment already in hand, reducing the loan you’ll have to take out. Another approach is to save it up until you can singlehandedly wipe out a major debt with it, like a student loan debt or a car debt or even your mortgage, thus adding a lot of breathing room to your monthly finances.
Remember, this is just a way of getting started. I found that when I started to get ahead a little bit, I wanted to get more ahead, so I used it as a motivator to trim more and more spending. Right now, I’m able to buy everything I need and want and have plenty of breathing room at the end of the month - a goal well worth striving for.
Check out more of Trent's financial commentary at www.thesimpledollar.com, or learn more about him at www.thesimpledollar.com/about/.
The Simple Dollar chronicles a man's road to recovery from "total financial meltdown." As author Trent Hamm puts it, "The Simple Dollar is a blog for those of us who need both cents and sense: people fighting debt and bad spending habits while building a financially secure future and still affording a latte or two." We'll post a couple of entries a week, but you can check out his writing daily at www.thesimpledollar.com.
On December 31, 2007, the S&P 500 closed at 1,468.36. Just two months later, on February 29, 2008, the S&P 500 closed at 1,330.63. That’s a 9.4% drop in just two months, an incredibly painful loss for almost everyone invested in the stock market. Even people who were invested in a highly diversified index fund felt the bite from this big drop.
Think about it - if you had $10,000 in the Vanguard 500 on December 31, your investment is now worth about $9,060 (give or take a dollar or so) - a loss of $940. Poof! Gone like that.
A lot of people see this as a reason not to buy stocks or to sell them. In fact, a lot of people do just that. They look at these losses and see danger - and they don’t want danger, so they stay out or they sell.
Let’s look at it another way.
On December 31, 2007, you could have spent $10,000 to buy shares in the Vanguard 500. On February 29, 2008, those shares are now on sale for $9,060. You’re buying the exact same thing, except now you’re saving $940.
Nothing fundamentally has changed about the investment itself. You’re still buying the same pieces of a wide array of large American companies. The only difference is that right now, these stocks are on sale.
Let’s keep this logic going. Let’s say over the next two months, the stock market rebounds and it goes back up to 10,000. You’ll score a very quick 10.3% return on your investment.
On the other hand, if it goes down yet again, your losses now are much smaller than if you had bought in on December 31.
What’s the idea? A down market isn’t a time to sell. It’s a time to buy. You don’t go to the supermarket and stock up on produce when the prices are expensive - you wait until things are in season and the prices are low.
What if I already own that index fund and I just took that loss on the chin? What if you came into this downturn already owning a fund, and you’re sitting there swallowing losses? This is the scenario where it’s tempting to sell and stop the bleeding.
Look at it this way, though. You’re already stuck with this loss - there’s no way of getting out of it. On the other hand, you’re currently holding an investment that’s at a discounted value. If you’re investing for the long term - and if you’re in stocks, this really should be a long term investment - then you need to hold onto that stock, not sell. By selling it now, you’re basically asking someone else to come in and take that discounted investment from you at a nice bargain price.
What if I own individual stocks? Individual stocks are potentially different. First of all, if you own the stock of a specific company, you should have specific reasons for owning it. Perhaps you have high confidence in the current management, or you believe in a specific product of the company. The reasons can vary, but if you don’t have a clear reason - and also a clear definition of what needs to happen for that reason to go away, you shouldn’t own the stock.
Let’s say, for example, that you own Apple stock and you do so because you believe in Steve Jobs. As long as he’s firmly in as CEO, you’ll keep holding Apple stock. When word starts being whispered that perhaps Jobs is about to retire, it may cause some serious tremors in Apple’s stock, and it might have gone down a bit when you hear the news. Of course, your reason for owning Apple is now gone, so you should sell - but that reason to sell has nothing to do with the stock price at the moment.
In the end, keep one thing in mind: stocks are a long term investment and if you sell based on what the price is doing today, this week, this month, or even this year, you’re asking for a smarter and more patient investor to take your money. Don’t sell any investment unless you have a reason for selling it, a reason not based on that day’s price.
Check out more of Trent's financial commentary at www.thesimpledollar.com, or learn more about him at www.thesimpledollar.com/about/.
The Simple Dollar chronicles a man's road to recovery from "total financial meltdown." As author Trent Hamm puts it, "The Simple Dollar is a blog for those of us who need both cents and sense: people fighting debt and bad spending habits while building a financially secure future and still affording a latte or two." We'll post a couple of entries a week, but you can check out his writing daily at www.thesimpledollar.com.
Just this morning, I was leafing through my favorite personal finance book of all, Your Money or Your Life, when I came across the idea of the “purge and splurge” cycle. From page 148, discussing what happens after you start buckling down and paying serious attention to your financial state:
In the first month of recording your figures you might confront one of our national foibles. Your income entry might well be lower than your expense entry. You may have spent more than you earned. (It is, after all, the American way.) Seeing this reality might come as a bit of a shock. Chances are you’ll want things to change - and change now. Accustomed to budgets, diets, and New Year’s resolutions, you swear on a stack of bank statements and credit cards that next month will be better.
This is when people often go on a “wallet fast” with the kind of zeal characteristic of first-time dieters. They scrimp. They save. They deprive themselves and their families, putting everyone on beans, rice, and oatmeal rations. They concentrate daily on that expenses line, determined to cut it in half in one short month. Amazingly enough, many do. Entering the expense figure the second month, they proudly note a steep decline.
This kind of austerity, however, isn’t sustainable. By the third month expenses often rebound with a vengeance, making up for the second month deprivation.
Now what?
I’ve been there. Have I ever been there. In the years before my financial meltdown, I went through this “purge and splurge” cycle several times. I’d have one month where I really cut back and saved a lot of money, then I’d “reward” myself in the next month by massively overspending on unnecessary stuff. When the bills came in, I’d panic again and go into belt-tightening mode, just to toss it all out the door once again.
There were several big things that I was doing wrong, though - things that I didn’t see at the time because I didn’t really understand how personal finance worked. If you’re having trouble escaping this cycle, just as I once did, here are some techniques to try.
Use a longer period for evaluation. Don’t just look at your spending over one month - that doesn’t really matter. Instead, look at your spending over a long period, like six months, and compare that to your income over that period. The short term really doesn’t matter that much - the difference is made over the long term.
Focus on not just avoiding spending, but changing the underlying behaviors that lead to spending. During those belt-tightening periods, I’d still go to bookstores and electronics stores, but I’d walk out the door proud of myself for not spending. The problem was that I was still in the mindset of a consumer - I would still go into the stores, tempt myself, and just use sheer willpower to pull myself away.
There’s only so much pure willpower can do. Use that willpower instead to change the habits that tempt you. Don’t use willpower when you’re in the store drooling over a new goodie - use willpower to decide to take another route home from work every night so you’re not tempted to stop in.
Make changes that are hard to undo during the belt-tightening phase. That’s the perfect time to cancel your credit cards or freeze them up in a big block of ice. Call up your service providers (your cell phone company, your cable company, etc.) and cancel some of the services. Look at your monthly bills and see what else you can trim that will take action to undo. Doing these things will ensure that some of the savings will remain with you, even if your resolve weakens a little.
Set tangible goals on a very regular basis - and keep setting them. Don’t just promise to trim the fat. Set a clear numerical goal to reach and, when you reach it, set another goal for the next month. If a month is hard for you, set week-long goals: I won’t eat fast food this week, for example. Make the goals very concrete and clear so that the things you need to do for success are obvious, then just keep setting them over and over again. Eventually, the techniques will become natural to you.
If you make a mistake, don’t follow it with another one. So you splurged. That doesn’t mean it needs to be followed by more splurging. Recognize that you slipped and then go back to your goals. The point is to keep generally heading in a good direction - everyone slips up on occasion. The winners, though, are the ones who don’t use “I splurged already, so it doesn’t matter” as an excuse to splurge even more.
Investigate new, inexpensive things that you like to do. One big problem that people have when following a newly frugal lifestyle is that they get bored. They wonder if pinching pennies is all there is to life, and they get tempted to spend. My advice is to do some research and load yourself up with as many free and inexpensive activities as you can find. Look up your community calendar and plan for events for the next two months. Check out a series of books from the library. Keep trying things that don’t cost much until you find things that bring you a lot of enjoyment, then start using those things as your regular recreation.
Just a few pages later in Your Money or Your Life, Dominguez and Robin nail the most fundamental key of all:
There are two keys to making this process work for you:
1. Start.
2. Keep going.
That’s really it - success in a nutshell.
Check out more of Trent's financial commentary at www.thesimpledollar.com, or learn more about him at www.thesimpledollar.com/about/.
The Simple Dollar chronicles a man's road to recovery from "total financial meltdown." As author Trent Hamm puts it, "The Simple Dollar is a blog for those of us who need both cents and sense: people fighting debt and bad spending habits while building a financially secure future and still affording a latte or two." We'll post a couple of entries a week, but you can check out his writing daily at www.thesimpledollar.com.
If you found a $100 bill floating around, what would you do with it? It’s a question I’ve been asking a lot of people lately, and the answers seem to fall into two general groups. According to my notes, I asked thirty one people that very question, and here’s how they fell out.
Spend it. This is where perhaps 90% of the responses fall (28 of them). Their eyes immediately flash with the idea of getting a new gadget or a new article of clothing or a new pile of books or something like that.
Save/invest it/use it to pay off debts. The other three people I asked fell into this category, in which they used that money to build up to more money over time.
After asking that, I followed it up with another question: what if an uncle you didn’t know about suddenly left you $100,000 (after taxes) in his will? The answers changed quite a bit with this one.
Spend it. Almost exactly half of the people (15) would still spend it quickly. I heard answers like getting a great car, outfitting a home theater room, and other such things. One woman actually claimed that she would hire a maid.
Save/invest it/use it to pay off debts. The rest claimed that they would use all or nearly all of it to pay off debts, mostly their homes. A few who own their homes claimed that they would invest it either in improving their current home to sell it later or as a down payment on another home.
When I asked what the difference between the two situations was, most of the people said that $100 wasn’t important enough to really matter, so they might as well spend it.
To me, this response explains exactly why consumer debt is such a problem. People have become so trained as consumers that $100 no longer seems “important” to the average person, and thus it can be spent on consumer goods without guilt. Even more amazing, to some people the same philosophy applies with $100,000.
The parable of the ant and the grasshopper appears here: it’s always better to plan ahead when you can rather than act wastefully now.
What could be done with $100? It could be put into an emergency fund so that the next time your car breaks down, the pinch isn’t so bad. It could be put into an extra house payment, which would singlehandedly drop multiple hundreds of dollars from your final payment. It could be put into your child’s 529, making college easier for them. It could be put into your own Roth IRA. It could be another brick in building a secure future for yourself or your children.
Or it could be spent on something you completely don’t need.
Ask yourself: what would you do if you found $100? Does your answer make you feel happy - or does it make you want to make a change? It’s a question I can’t answer for you - you have to answer it for yourself.
Check out more of Trent's financial commentary at www.thesimpledollar.com, or learn more about him at www.thesimpledollar.com/about/.
The Simple Dollar chronicles a man's road to recovery from "total financial meltdown." As author Trent Hamm puts it, "The Simple Dollar is a blog for those of us who need both cents and sense: people fighting debt and bad spending habits while building a financially secure future and still affording a latte or two." We'll post a couple of entries a week, but you can check out his writing daily at www.thesimpledollar.com.
I used to waste tons of money on silly little things. I did it so often and so regularly that I didn’t even realize that it was adding up to a huge dent in my finances. A pack of Tic-Tacs here, a CD there, a DVD here, a new book there… it wasn’t long before I was dropping hundreds of dollars a month on silly things and not putting together the bigger picture.
When I reached my financial rock bottom and decided to change things, I realized it wouldn’t be easy to immediately change my habits, so I took a “one month challenge” to see what exactly was going on with my money. I kept a little notebook in my pocket and I recorded everything I spent in a single month, from a pack of Tic-Tacs to a book at Borders to an itemized grocery list to song purchases on iTunes. I kept a spreadsheet of every expense, including every single item I bought at the grocery store, item by item, and everything else.
At the end of the month, I went through and marked things as either essential or non-essential, then I totaled each amount. What I saw then truly shocked me: I had spent more on items I labeled non-essential than on items I had labeled essential. This meant that more than half of the money I brought in in an average month was completely wasted. Even scarier? I spent more money than I brought in.
I then repeated the “one month challenge,” except this time I made a strong effort to ask myself whether each purchase was essential or not. By simply asking myself that question for every single purchase, my non-essential purchases went way, way down. At the end of the second month, when I tallied up my spreadsheet, I knew the news would be good and it was: my frivolous spending was about 20% of my non-frivolous spending, and I still had about 40% of the money I brought in that month. That 40% paid off a good chunk of one of my remaining credit cards.
This experiment provided such a personal shock to me that I now ask myself before every purchase: do I really need this? If the answer is no, then I literally put it back on the shelf and give myself a few minutes worth of breathing time. Almost always, I don’t pick the item up again.
If you’re drowning, try taking the one month challenge! At the start of a month, begin a spreadsheet that includes every single expense you have in a month. I’d recommend going so far as itemizing receipts, listing each item that you buy and what it cost. At the end of the month, mark each item as essential or non-essential and total each, then compare those amounts to what you brought in for the month. If the non-essential amount is anywhere close to the essential amount, you have a lot of fat that you can cut from your spending diet!
Check out more of Trent's financial commentary at www.thesimpledollar.com, or learn more about him at www.thesimpledollar.com/about/.
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